Power Drills Buyer's Guide

Take the hard work out of DO-IT-YOURSELF with a good drill.
It could be on of the most diverse and very useful tools you buy.
Proper drill will save time during your work and make easy drilling holes into metal, wood, concrete etc., as well as drive screws and bolts.
It is useful getting acquaint with a drill's main feature before you buy, so you could choose the best one.

Right Angle Drill

I. Types
Standard Drills Hammer Drills Screw Guns
II. Cordless drills

Right Angle Drill

Cord or Cordless? Pros and Cons The main features Power and Battery
III. Drill Shapes
IV. Variable speed
V. Torque
VI. Other features to look out for
VII. Power rating
VIII. Hammer action
IX. Chuck type

TYPES

Standard Drills

Standard electric rotary drills designed for drilling metal and wood. This type of drill is normally small and compact. Motor sizes range from around 500 watts. The lower wattage motors are ok for drilling small holes or minimal use, the more powerful motored machines will cope with larger size holes and more frequent use. The chuck size is another thing to check, the smaller drills have a chuck which will only accept drill bits up to 10mm diameter the larger chuck size is 13mm.

Hammer Drills

The hammer drill is similar to a standard electric drill, with the exception that it is provided with a hammer action for drilling masonry. The hammer action may be engaged or disengaged as required.

The hammer action is cheap but delicate. It uses two cam plates to make the chuck accelerate towards the work. However because of the relative masses of the chuck+bit and the remainder of the drill the energy transfer is inefficient and will fail to penetrate harder materials and vibrates the operators hand. The cams wear quickly.

Compare this to a rotary/pneumatic hammer drill where just the bit is accelerated to the work. They have relatively little vibration and penetrate most building materials. It feels as though the work is sucking the bit inwards.

Large cam hammer drills, especially transverse motor, are crude in their action. The energy delivered in each stroke is highly variable. The cheaper drill will smash its way through the work and vibrate the surroundings, this can cause lots of collateral damage. A good SDS drill will gently pulverize the work material just in front of the bit and glide into the hole without any "fuss".

However there is a big difference in cost. In the UK typically £12-40 for a cam hammer and £100 up for a rotary/pneumatic. For light DIY use they are fine.

Screw Guns

These Electric Screwdrivers are made specifically for applying screws and hexagon headed Tek Screw to plasterboard and metal cladding. The drywall screws are designed purely for plasterboard fixing. The electric screwdriver uses a specially designed chuck to self guide the specifically designed fixings that feature widely spaced threads to ensure good grip. This is achieved by the unique collar on this type of electric screwdriver.

Some electric screwdrivers are able to use Collated Screws which provides auto-loading of screws which are loaded into the tool on a strip which is then fed onto the bit.

Drill press

A drill press (also known as pedestal drill, pillar drill, or bench drill) is a fixed style of drill that may be mounted on a stand or bolted to the floor or workbench. A drill press consists of a base, column (or pillar), table, spindle (or quill), and drill head, usually driven by an induction motor. The head has a set of handles (usually 3) radiating from a central hub that, when turned, move the spindle and chuck vertically, parallel to the axis of the column. The table can be adjusted vertically and is generally moved by a rack and pinion; however, some older models rely on the operator to lift and re-clamp the table in position. The table may also be offset from the spindle's axis and in some cases rotated to a position perpendicular to the column. The size of a drill press is typically measured in terms of swing. Swing is defined as twice the throat distance, which is the distance from the center of the spindle to the closest edge of the pillar. For example, a 16-inch drill press will have an 8-inch throat distance.

A drill press has a number of advantages over a hand-held drill:

less effort is required to apply the drill to the workpiece. The movement of the chuck and spindle is by a lever working on a rack and pinion, which gives the operator considerable mechanical advantage.

the table allows a vise or clamp to position and lock the work in place making the operation secure.
the angle of the spindle is fixed in relation to the table, allowing holes to be drilled accurately and repetitively.

Speed change is achieved by manually moving a belt across a stepped pulley arrangement. Some drill presses add a third stepped pulley to increase the speed range. Modern drill presses can, however, use a variable-speed motor in conjunction with the stepped-pulley system; a few older drill presses, on the other hand, have a sort of traction-based continuously variable transmission for wide ranges of chuck speeds instead, which can be changed while the machine is running.

CORDLESS DRILLS

A cordless drill is a type of electric drill which uses rechargeable batteries. These drills are available with similar features to an AC mains-powered drill. They are available in the hammer drill configuration and most also have a clutch setting which allows them to be used for driving screws.

For continuous use, a worker will have one or more spare battery packs charging while drilling, so that he or she can quickly swap them, instead of having to wait several hours during recharges.

Early cordless drills started with interchangeable 7.2V battery packs, and over the years the battery voltage has been increased to 18V, and higher, allowing these tools to produce as much torque as many mains-powered drills. The drawback of most current models is the use of nickel-cadmium (NiCd) batteries, which develop a memory effect or internal short circuits due to dendrite growth, severely limiting their useful life, and posing a hazardous materials disposal problem. Drill manufacturers are now introducing lithium ion batteries, most notably DEWALT.

The main advantages are lack of memory effect and very short charging time. Instead of charging a tool for an hour to get 20 minutes of use, 20 minutes of charge can run the tool for an hour. Lithium-ion batteries also have a constant discharge rate. The power output remains constant until the battery is depleted, something that nickel-cadmium batteries also lack, and which makes the tool much more versatile. Lithium-ion batteries also hold a charge for a significantly longer time than nickel-cadmium batteries, about 2 years if not used, vs. around 4 months for a nickel-cadmium battery.

CORD OR CORDLESS. Pros and Cons

I. Corded Drills
Pack the most power Most durable Can handle mixing mud, boring holes, and drilling concrete Usually unnecessary for most homeowners
II. Cordless Power Drills
Easily transported and used Less power and run time restricted by battery life Recharging may take several hours Higher voltage means more power, but also more weight Newer technology has improved cordless drills; most are now strong enough for many tasks previously out of their league
Cordless drill:

Corded drill:

THE MAIN FEATURES

Top 10 points to look for:

Speed-range switch, generally 2 ratios, both high and low, normally selected by changing mechanical gearing. High is for drilling applications whilst low range is reserved for driving screws. Look out for the widest range between the two settings

Look for a reliable motor, some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some bosch models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are uning your cordless drill on a daily basis.

Forward/reverse switch: This should be easy to operate with either your thumb or trigger finger - again this is a standard feature but look for one which is easy to operate.
Hand grip: Texture and contoured, should aid your grip, some Porter and Cable cordless drills have padded grips which you can choose to match your hand size - useful after an 8 hour shift.

Voltage: a higher voltage means more drilling power but it can also mean more weight - don't buy a drill you won't need, 12 volt drills are powerful enough for most DIY users, bigger models just weigh more so think carefully about what you will be using the drill for.

Batteries: Two are better than one. New NiMH batteries tend to be better because they deliver more charge and last longer.

Trigger: Make sure your index finger fits around it comfortably when gripping the drill, Variable speed offers the greatest control.

Chuck jaws: The maximum chuck capacity on most drills is 3/8 inches. Although some 14.4 and 18V drills can handle 1/2-inch-diameter bits, these have a 1/2inch chuck.

Keyless chuck: Virtually a standard fitting today, hand-turn it to open and close the chuck jaws. The keyless chuck can grip any screwdriver bit or drill bit securely.

Clutch: Setting the clutch gives you greater control of the depth to which screws are driven.

POWER AND BATTERY

Batteries: A cordless drill is only as good as its battery. Make sure the battery has enough run time to help you power through all your tasks. For more demanding applications, look for a drill that comes with a second battery or purchase an additional one. Chargers can take several hours to fully recharge a battery, so bear that in mind when planning your work schedule. If you need a faster recharge, look for a "smart" charger. Smart chargers work quickly and often reduce charge as the battery becomes full to avoid overcharging to extend the life of the battery. Look for nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) and lithium-ion batteries, as they are slightly smaller and tend to have a longer run time.

Charge a second battery as you work to avoid mid-job downtime

Smart chargers use fans to reduce heat and decrease recharging time

NiMH batteries are easier and less hazardous to dispose of than other types

First thing when you look at a good cordless drill will be Volts of the the battery pack. To simplify it - the more Volts your cordless drill has - the faster the motor spins - the more torque you will get. Unfortunately - the more volts your cordless drills have - the heavier they get (if you ever worked with a 18 Volt drill over a longer period of time - you will know what I am talking about).

Similar important as the Volts of your battery are the Ampere. Measured in Ah (Ampere per hour) it gives you an idea of how long a battery will last. You can have a 12 Volts battery with 1.8 Ah and with 2.4 Ah. Obviously both batteries should give you the same power initially, but the 2.4 Ah will last 30% longer. Important if you use cordless drills for heavy duty work.

Looking at Volts and Ampere, you should also understand the basic types of battery packs currently available on the market. The (older) Standard Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) battery packs are cheaper but do not give you much Ah as the newer Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs. The Ni-MH packs also give you an additional advantage in recharging, as the do not loose power after being recharged many many times (no-memory effect). Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) battery packs are usually more expensive, but definitely worth it's money.

As batteries changed improved over the past years most manufacturers offer a wide range of power packs. Finding the right Dewalt or Makita batteries can therefore sometimes be a bit of a challenge.

The higher the voltage, the more power (9.6-28V) and weight (3-10 lb) the drill will posess. Most household jobs will be fine with a 13.2 volt or 14.4 volt battery, but an 18 volt couldn't hurt. Most 9.6V drills might be sufficient for home jobs, but may lack the needed torque you find in a 14.4V drill -- which is usually not significantly more in price. Go with at least a 14.4V. For tough jobs and doing masonry, a more powerful 24 or 28 volt battery is recommended.

Rechargeable drill batteries should last you about five years, or roughly 500 charges, though with frequent use you might need to replace it sooner. They can be pricey (-) so if your drill was only 0 or less, you might want to consider just buying a brand new drill. If you have a higher end drill, it's probably more economical to buy a replacement battery.

DRILL SHAPES

Pistol Grip Drills

Are held like a pistol.

Doesn't that feel powerful?

T-Handle Drills

Are most popular.

Shaped like a T for best balance.

Right Angle Drills

Are barrel-less.

The bit extends from the base at a right angle.

TORQUE

Drill price reflects a number of features, including torque. Torque, which is measured in foot-pounds, is the drill's maximum amount of turning force. Some drills have an adjustable clutch with different torque settings for different applications.

Common features you'll want in a cordless or corded drill are electric brakes, which stops the drill chuck as soon as you release the trigger, and keyless chucks.

OTHER FEATURES TO LOOK OUT FOR

Keyless Chuck: The chuck holds the drill bit in place, and keyless chucks allow you to conveniently change bits without having to use a separate key to unlock and replace.

Auxiliary Handle: Drills with side handles provide greater control and two-handed operation. These auxiliary handles rotate, enabling you to find the ideal angle and position from which to work.

Multiple Clutch Settings: Cordless drills often feature a clutch adjustment ring, which may have anywhere from two to twenty-four settings. Once you know the depth and torque needed on a particular surface, set the clutch accordingly to ensure consistent results and reduce the instance of wrist snap.

Electronic Brake: This feature causes the drill to stop immediately when you stop squeezing the trigger, preventing you from overdriving or stripping screws.

Variable Speed and Reversing: Many drills offer multiple speed settings, allowing you to choose the right one for the job at hand, and most have a reverse feature that allows you to remove screws and other fasteners.

Heat Shields and Cooling Fans: These features protect the drill from overheating, enabling longer, more efficient periods of use.

Power Drills Buyer's Guide

Right Angle Drill

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Outfield Drills For Softball

In the sport of softball, the outfield is the last line of defense. They are the pitcher's last hope to record an out and possibly save a win for the team. Therefore, it's very important that a team is able to put together a solid outfield and that they have the necessary skills to play a position that can be really difficult at times. Putting the outfielders through various drills, can help them acquire these skills and keep the skills they already have as sharp as possible. Here then are five drills for softball outfielders to practice.
Here then are five drills for softball outfielders to practice.

Right Angle Drill

Drill 1-Grapevine

Right Angle Drill

Purpose: To improve the footwork, concentration, and catching ability of all fielders while they move in both directions.

Procedure: The coach stands about 10 feet in front of a line of players facing her and takes the ball from the first player in line. The coach points to the right. Player turns shoulder and hips to that side and runs perpendicular away from the coach. After about three or four steps, coach points in the other direction. Player, using the crossover step, turns the other direction, still running in a straight line away from the coach, never losing sight of the ball. After another three or four steps, coach points in original direction. Player then repeats previous crossover step and turns in original direction. Coach then throws a fly ball in the direction of the original point forcing the player to catch the ball by stretching over that side's shoulder. Player makes the catch and brings the ball back to the end of the line. It is important that the drill be executed full speed in a dead sprint, and that the player changes direction only when the coach makes the signal. Also, the player should never lose sight of the ball. The flys should be challenging and require a great deal of effort to make the catch. By the time the fielder has caught the ball, the next player in line has already set herself in the ready position.

Drill 2-Outfield Loop

Purpose: To field an assortment of batted balls and to field with different footwork positions. To throw to different bases and to condition.

Procedure: This drill uses 5-9 players. Players are in left field and at second (with a ball) and third base, with a player catching and a fungo hitter at the plate. One player works through all the defensive plays that follow.

1. A ground ball is hit to the left fielder who throws it home.

2. The left fielder runs into center field where the second baseman throws a fly ball. The player catches the fly and throws it to second base.

3, Then the player runs into right field where the second baseman throws a ground ball toward the foul line. The player fields the ball and throws to third base.

4. Lastly, the player runs to left field where the batter hits her a ground ball which is thrown home.

After the player completes the circuit, the outfielder becomes the catcher at home, the catcher rotates to third base, third base rotates to second base, and second base rotates to left field. Additional players are waiting their turns at the outfield position.

Drill 3-Shoestring Catch

Purpose: To practice making diving and shoestring catches.

Procedure: This drill uses 2-10 players. The players form three lines, standing about 60 feet from the coach. The lines are positioned about 20 feet apart. The coach has all the softballs. The first player in line A runs toward the coach. When she is about halfway to the coach, a soft underhand toss is made to the player's left, right, or straight ahead. If the player makes the diving catch, she should hold the ball up so the coach can see it. This will help the player remember to hold the ball up in games so the umpire can see that she caught the ball. The player attempts to make the catch, tosses the ball to the coach, and runs to the end of her line. The first player in line B then runs toward the coach and then the first player in line C.

Drill 4-Bump Out

Purpose: To put game-like pressure on the infielder or outfielder.

Procedure: Set up for any of the defensive drills listed above. An additional player waits off to the side of the drill. When a fielder makes a throwing or fielding error, she leaves the drill and the player who is waiting replaces her. Every time an error is made the fielder steps out and the waiting player steps in.

Drill 5-Full Field in Between With Tennis Balls

Purpose: To practice communication among all outfielders handling in-between batted balls.

Procedure: All outfielders and infielders are at their positions. A fungo hitter is at the plate with a tennis racket and tennis balls. The fungo hitter hits balls into all sections of the field. Tennis balls are caught and thrown off to the sides of the field. All fielders need to stay focused on the hitter, as the hitter alternates hits to the left and right side of the field.

Outfield Drills For Softball

Right Angle Drill

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Baseball Hitting Drills

That One's Outta There!

Right Angle Drill

Nothing quite beats the sound of a bat cracking a pitch so perfectly that the batter barely even needs to look up to see it's out of the park. A satisfying smile creeps across the batter's face as they toss the vibrating bat aside, jogging the rounds of the bases with pride. The following baseball hitting drills aim to improve your team's batting skills so that more players can experience the joy of cracking one out of the park.

Right Angle Drill

Have your players perform the following hitting exercise at every practice to help them build muscle memory in the crucial lower body region. Each hitter takes a bat, places it behind their back and while gripping the bat firmly assume their hitting stance.

Next, have players take a stride inwards, then remove the top hand and use it to pull the bat around their waist. At this time, players are rolling up on their back foot and their knees and abdomen should be facing outwards, towards where the pitcher would be situation. From here, have players resume their normal stance before repeating 10 times. Players will begin to feel the improvements in their lower body muscles after just a few practices.

Arm Isolation

The first of the baseball hitting drills can be used to strengthen arm muscles and improve hitter confidence by hitting the ball using only one hand on the bat. Make sure that batter begin with the lead hand choked very high up the bat. Weaker players may need to place the hand from their weaker arm in the armpit of the batter arm for extra power and support.

Before attempting to hit, have players swing the bat a few times with just their lead arm. Make sure approach the pitches with caution, staying back on the ball as much as possible. Allow each player 5 successful hits before switching arms and performing double the reps with the weaker arm to build additional strength. After adding this to your arsenal of drills, players will ideally develop equal arm strength in each arm, or at least build crucial muscle memory in their weaker arm.

Don't Hit the Chair

The next of the baseball hitting drills is perfect if you have a number of players on your team who cut too far upwards when hitting. To set up the drill, set up a batting tee at home plate and a folding chair behind the tee. The seat of the chair should be facing the tee and the tee should be slightly lower than the back of the chair.

Have your hitter approach the plate and assume their normal stance just behind the chair. Players are to swing and hit the ball through the hole in the chair, forcing players to accommodate a downward angle to their swing. I like to use metal folding chairs for this drill because of the loud sound made when players fail to add enough downward arc to their swing. This drill is great for players looking to develop their line drive hits as they are shown the ideal spot to hit the ball to produce such a result.

Baseball Hitting Drills

Right Angle Drill

Cyber Monday Milwaukee 0370-20 3/8-inch, 55-Degree Close Quarter Drill 2011 Deals

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Basketball Fast Break Scenarios &amp; Drills

The game of basketball consists of two styles of play. One style is the half-court offense. This is where teams methodically run plays and set picks to create an open shot against a set defense. The other style of play is the fast break. A fast break is when an offensive player runs the ball up the court in a hurry trying to beat the defense up the floor and create a lay-up or an un-contested jumper.

Right Angle Drill

This article explains specific fast break scenarios that are common during games and drills that can be run to practice those situations.

Right Angle Drill

2 on 1

The 2 on 1 should result in a lay-up every time. This situation could very well be the toughest play to defend in basketball. I teach that the key to this scenario is to make the defense commit. If I'm the point guard, I'm going to act as if I'm going to score every time I have the ball when it's a 2 on 1. If I act that way then I can force the defense to commit to me and then pass to my teammate for an easy basket. When going at the basket, make sure you have a good angle to the hoop. Make sure your spacing is correct where the defense can't guard both you and your teammate at the same time. Make sure that you aren't pulling up for a 15 foot shot in this situation or you will end up on the bench. To practice this drill, have two players start at mid-court with one defender at the foul line. See how it plays out. Let the players have free reign of their choices and allow them to think for themselves here. When I work with players on this drill I coach it as much for defense as I do for offense. Make sure the offensive player learns that they must get the defender to commit to either him or his teammate.

3 on 2

This situation comes up many times each game and isn't much different than the 2 on 1 except for the fact that it is ok to not end up getting a lay-up. To practice this drill, line up a point guard in the middle and a wing on each side. The defense should have a player near the basket and a player near the foul line. The point guard will take the ball and make the first defender commit to either the ball or a wing player. If the player commits to the ball then the point should pass the ball to a wing player and go to the foul line extended of the side the ball was passed. The wing player that gets the ball can attempt to score with a short jumper or a layup if it is there. Let the players play this one out as well. They will start to see what is open and what isn't open without even being told. Most often the defense plays this well and forces a 15 foot jumper from the point guard. Do not allow more than 3 passes. In real life the defense will be caught up by the 3rd or 4th pass. This is a fast break drill not keep away.

3 on 1

This should be and easy lay-up. On the professional level it is as close to a guaranteed slam dunk as anything. The job of the point guard is to force the defensive player to commit here by making him stop the ball. I still will coach him to stop near the foul line, but I don't mind if he dribbles until the defense tries to stop him. However, in most cases the defense will stop the ball and the point guard will pass to a wing for a layup. Keep in mind that some coaches, will tell the defender to try and take a charge in this situation. Many point guards will pass while still moving forward and the defense will set up right in front of him and get ran over. Some refs will call a charge on the play. That is why it is crucial to coach the jump-stop so the point won't run over any defenders. It is also near impossible for a defender to get from the foul line to the basket to take a charge on in incoming wing player. If he wants to try it, let him because he's going to get clobbered and called for a block at the same time.

4 on 4

This is one of my favorite drills. This drill is great for practicing both styles of play and gets in a lot of conditioning. It is also a very competitive. I encourage this drill to be run with 3 teams with 4 players on each team. It is a full-court drill that involves offense and defense. This drill starts at half-court with 4 players on offense and 2 players on defense. The other 2 players on defense must remain at half-court until the ball is in play. Once the point guard starts to attack the defense, the remaining defenders will run from behind in an attempt to stop the offense from scoring. If the offense scores, the defense gets the ball and immediately goes on offense and starts to attack the opposite basket. The 3rd team of 4 is awaiting them with 2 defenders in a stacked position near the basket and the other 2 defenders near mid-court waiting for the point guard to cross. Once the point guard crosses the same thing takes place. If the defense steals the ball they are immediately on offense and so forth. The defenders should rotate positions so that sometimes they are trailing on the play while other times they are not.

A variation of this drill calls for defense to be played until the ball reaches mid-court. That means that once the offense scores or has it stolen, they are immediately on defense until the ball gets to mid-court. This is only to be done in a more controlled advanced setting as compared to younger players who will struggle to get the ball to mid-court in some cases. Remember that the point to this drill is to realize that there is always defense coming to help and that you need to be quick and decisive when in transition. We would play this drill so that the team who scored 7 first won the game. 7 was just our number, any other number can be used. Keep in mind that the players will get tired and that as they get tired the quality of play will suffer. It's a great drill to get them use to running fast breaks during games.

Basketball Fast Break Scenarios & Drills

Right Angle Drill

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Fitting Your Own Yacht Cabin Heaters

Cabin heaters can transform winter sailing, and provided you've got the tools, space and time, are relatively easy to install, too. Winter is an ideal time to install a boat heater. It can make chilly mornings a thing of the past, with the promise of snug evenings aboard in a deserted anchorage. And if you've laid your boat up for the winter, stripping out cushions and equipment, it will make installing a heater a lot easier.

Right Angle Drill

Choosing a heater depends on the size of your boat and your budget. It's better to have a small heater working hard than a big one ticking over that can coke up, like an idle diesel engine.

Right Angle Drill

Where to install?
If you've got the skills, tools, space and time and you want to fit a heater yourself, the prime consideration is the ducting route. Where do you want heat? Is there enough space to work? If you can, cut ducting holes through wooden panels rather than the GRP frames. Not only is drilling easier but, more importantly, you won't compromise the internal structure of the boat.

The ducting route defines where the heater can be fitted. Some heaters specifically need to be mounted horizontally or vertically. Fitting your heater close to the fuel tank and batteries will make life easier.

If you can't use the mounting board supplied, devise another to make sure the heater's location allows ducting runs without sharp angles... every 90° bend loses 5% of the heat, which is why the secret of a good heating system lies in the ducting.
Finally, think about the exhaust exit. If you stow fenders on the pushpit, siting the exhaust next to them will melt them in seconds. And remember, the exhaust needs a swan neck to prevent water entering the heater.

Boat heater installation

It is good practice to run the ducting along the upper edge of lockers to prevent it from being crushed by heavy items while sailing. Boat manufacturers expect some retro-fitted heating, as holes in the tightest places are often pre-cut at the factory. When placing the vents, always drill through from the visible side to prevent damaging the exterior. Thermostat and control wiring should be threaded through the new holes before the ducting. The dial control can be fitted anywhere the wiring will allow, but imagine being able to switch the heating on and off without having to leave the comfort of a warm bunk. Cover the ducting with a plastic bag to stop its rough edges tearing the Thermoduct insulation, then insert two sleeves of insulation over the ducting.

The fuel system

Heaters use solenoid fuel pumps so a lift pipe is needed, fitted to the tank. As the pump can't lift beyond 1m (3ft 3in), line up the lift pipe and tank, score and snap the copper pipe before gently bending it to attach to the pump, allowing two spirals in the pipe to compensate for vibration. A second pipe, running from heater to pump, needs the same treatment.

Run a protective sleeve over the stainless steel exhaust tube and bend a swan neck at the top. Drill a pilot hole in the transom and once sure it is in the right place, take the exhaust fitting outside and place it against the transom to gauge the right angle for the hole.
Using a grinding-toothed hole-cutter to prevent the gelcoat cracking, and enough marine sealant to ensure a watertight fit, bolt the skin fitting in place.

Back in the transom, attach the exhaust and cut to fit. Attach a short air inlet pipe to the heater to allow diesel combustion.

It's a lot of work, so seriously consider whether you've got the skills, tools and time to get it right.
Plan the ducting route first and keep it as straight as possible - bends lose heat. Use the right tools and, when working in confined spaces, take everything you need with you.
Turn angled skin fittings upside down and back to front to work out the correct drilling angle.
Use a vacuum cleaner while drilling into the fuel tank to minimize the debris that enters the tank.

Fitting Your Own Yacht Cabin Heaters

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How To Make More Putts - Drills From The Pro's

Over 40% of your shots during a round of golf are putts. Having a solid, repeatable putting stroke can make the difference between a great round of golf, and a horrible one. If you sink more putts, you score better, and this article will give you a few great drills and tips that will help you putt and score better.

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When you are playing in a competitive round of golf, there are no given putts, so it is important that you are confident in your ability to sink those all important short putts. This is what the first drill will focus on, improving your ability to make those 3-4 footers.

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Drill #1 - Around The World

Gather six golf balls and set up those balls in a circle around the hole, each ball should be about 3-4 feet from the hole. Pick a ball, go through your full routine and try to make the putt. If you do not make the putt, place the ball back in its original position and try again. When you make the putt, move on to the next ball and do the same thing. However, if you miss this putt, you have to start all over again at the first ball. Continue the above process until you are able to make all six putts without missing.

The above drill is effective because it forces you to read each putt separately. Since each ball is in a different location, no putt will be the same as another. Providing a realistic practice scenario. Note: this drill can be used for any length putt.

Drill #2 - George Washington

Find a fairly flat and easy to make 5 foot putt. This putt should not have a lot of break or elevation change in it. Put a quarter, face up, on the ground where the ball will be. (About five feet from the hole) Place the golf ball on top of the quarter. Go through your full routine and when you hit the ball, do not follow it with your eyes. After you hit the ball, you should be looking straight into George Washington's eyes. Repeat steps 3-4, 10-15 more times. Always making sure that at the end of each putt, you are looking right at Mr. Washington.

The above drill is effective because it encourages you to keep your head down through the putt. A major cause of missing short putts is following the ball with your eyes. Practice keeping your head and eyes down through all the putts you hit, and you will sink more putts.

Drill #3 - Just by a Little

Pick a starting location on the green, and mark it with a tee. Walk five paces in a straight line and mark your new standing point with a tee. Walk another five paces and mark your spot again. You should now have three tee's spread out about 5 paces from each other. Note: this drill does not require a hole. Walk back to your starting tee and put down a ball next to it. Now, try to putt the ball so that the ball goes just past the second tee, but stops before the third tee. If you do not get the ball between the two tees, try again. Once you putted a ball between the second and third tee's, place another ball on the ground next to the first tee and try to putt it just past the last ball you hit, without going past the last tee. Your goal is to get as many balls as you can between the second and third tees, always hitting your putt, just past the last ball you hit. When you are unable to make it past the last ball you hit, or you go past the last tee, start over.

The above drill is effective because it increases your ability to control distance. Note: this is a good drill to get used to new greens, and can be used as an effective way to get a feel for greens before a tournament.

Now that you have used these drills to practice you need to use them to your advantage to prepare for tournaments. An effective putting warm-up routine is essential to playing your best in a tournament. In a tournament you are most likely going to be playing on an unfamiliar course and as a result, unfamiliar greens that could be very different from what you are used to putting on. Outlined below is an effective putting warm-up routine that incorporates the drills outlined in this article into one, easy to follow tournament warm-up routine.

The Tournament Warm-Up

Start with three footers, making five or six of these will give you an initial boost of confidence. Use the "Around The World" drill, outlined above. Use this drill for three footers, six footers, and 9 foot putts. This will help you get a feel for the green from multiple angles. Use the "Just by a Little" drill, outlined above. This drill will help you get a feel for the speed of the green. Hit 5-6 long putts, these putts should be about 30 feet long. Finish with the "Around The World" drill for three footers only. This will give you the confidence to go out and sink those short putts.

These drills will help you become a better putter, and as a result, a better golfer. Good luck and happy golfing.

How To Make More Putts - Drills From The Pro's

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Black Friday Ryobi 18V One+ Right Angle ''Close Quarters'' Drill P240 2011 Deals

Nov 26, 2011 04:22:36

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Black Friday Ryobi 18V One+ Right Angle ''Close Quarters'' Drill P240 Overview

When you need to drill holes in tight spaces ? between studs, for example ? this is your tool. By turning the chuck 90 degrees to the motor, weve made this drill so compact that it adds just a few inches to the length of your bits themselves. Its light weight and nice balance suit it to general-purpose drilling and driving, too. Variable speed switch controls drilling/driving from a slow start to a fast finish. Oversized trigger for various hand positions.3/8 Heavy-duty ratcheting chuck for quick secure bit changes. Swiveling battery foot allows you to position the battery pack in the most convenient location Extensive power grip overmold maximizes user comfort.Forward/Reverse selector conveniently located for inserting and removal tasks.On-board bit storage for quick storage and access Unit is Reconditionedwith 1 Year WarrantyRequires Battery # 130224028 Which is the One Plus System

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Know More About the Torque Wrench

A wrench is a tool that is used for mechanical and electrical purposes to tighten and loosen nuts and bolts. The torque wrench is also a type of wrench that has a special indicator feature that tells the user that he has applied a certain level of torque on the nut or the bolt. This wrench helps you to avoid any kind of extra tightening of the nut or the bolt that may cause damage to it.

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With the help of the this tool you can thus measure the amount of torque that has been applied and ensure that the nut or the bolt is tightened up to the required specifications. This helps you to ensure the loading and the tension of the parts is done in a proper manner. It helps to measure the bolt tension and the bolt stretch at times as it may suffer from inaccuracies.

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It is very simple to use the torque wrench as there is a dial or an indicator that helps the user with the dial or an indicator that shows the user where to stop the tightening. It also has a typical type of gauge that shows different pressure levels. The wrench also has many metric and imperial markings. These wrenches have the advantages of replacing stripped nuts in certain parts of a vehicle. Vehicle owners should have this handy tool in their cars as they save a lot of their time and money.

There are many types of torque wrench and the common ones are the beam type, the deflecting beam, the click type and the no hub wrench. All these wrenches are sophisticated versions and this helps you to make your work simple. All these wrenches have different purposes and they have different settings to suit all your work requirements. They can be used for all types of tightening needs and you can get the desired level of tightening that is required.

When you are using the above wrench tools you must ensure that you use them correctly so that they do not break. You must stop when these torque wrenches stops tightening as if you do not the tool will break. This tool usually makes a crackling noise or sound once the nut or the bolt is tightened. It is advised that you should double check the setting on the torque wrench for the sake of checking the level of tightening.

It is advisable to double check the setting on the torque wrench if you are not sure about it. Once you do this you should then only try tightening the nut a little more. If the breaking sound of wrench again occurs then you must not tight it any more. If you are working on measurements that require accurate and specific measurements you must ensure that you use the correct torque wrench.

Thus, the torque wrench is a specialized industrial hand tool that is indispensable. There are many torque wrench manufacturers that produce the best types of torque wrenches in the market and all you need to do is get hold of the right one to cater to your needs.

Know More About the Torque Wrench

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Five Keys to Volleyball Serving Success

In volleyball, the serve is the most critical component of the game. Fail to deliver and a loss is certain, but master the serve and victory is almost undeniable. Whether he/she is a novice or professional athlete, brushing up on the basics of the serve is essential in improving game performance.

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•SERVING 101
To deliver a serve effectively, the fundamentals of the overhand serve should be mastered before moving on to more advanced techniques.

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1. Body Position - Feet, hips, and shoulders face the desired direction of the serve. If right handed, the left foot should be slightly in front of the right foot.
2. Ball Position - Place the ball in the non-serving hand at chest height. Elbow should be loose with a slight bend.
3. Arm Position - The elbow and hand of the serving arm should be bent at 90° angle, approximately ear height, with hand open, and wrist locked. Elbow should remain at ear level or above throughout the serve to avoid hitting the net.
4. Ball Toss - The most critical element of the serve is the ball toss. It should be 12"-18" above the server's head, and positioned in front of the serving shoulder. Keep the motion simple and reach high.
5. Ball Contact - Strike the ball with the heel of the hand through the middle of the ball. Hand should be open and flat, wrist locked, arm extended, and step forward. Follow through the motion, finishing with the striking hand in line with the body. This guarantees maximum velocity and power.

•COMMON MISTAKES
Poor Toss - Consistency is the most critical aspect of the toss. Maintain the same height and position with each toss, aim for one point on the volleyball, and strike with as much force as possible.

Loose Wrist or Hand - Serving wrist and hand should be stiff when striking the ball.

Lack of Confidence - Practice makes perfect, not only in the physical aspect of the game, but in the mental. Attempt to simulate the pressures of the game during practice with various drills.

•DRILLS
Drills are necessary in creating an unwavering serve. Without drills, a reliable performance cannot be achieved. The bottom line is that REPETITION builds muscle memory. Muscle memory leads to CONSISTENCY. Consistency leads to scoring. Consistent scoring equates WINNING.

Beginner Level Serve Drill (Requires 2 Players)
Have one player stand on each side of the court, taking turns serving to one another. Begin at the 10' line, an adequate point to serve the ball from without overexerting. Gradually progress backwards every 5 serves until eventually arriving behind the baseline. As the skill level improves, begin moving to different areas of the court in order to perfect placement of the serve.

Intermediate Level Serve Drill (Team Drill)
This drill's purpose is to improve accuracy. Divide team into 2 squads, with 1 on each side of the net. In zone 1 on each side of the net, place a chair. Have 1 player from each squad represented in a chair. The remaining members attempt to place the serve close enough for the individual in the chair to catch the ball in the air. If the ball is caught, the server must run under the net, exchange places with the person in the chair, while that person then joins the team of servers. Continue this sequence, moving the chair to a new zone with the change of persons in the chair.

•STRATEGY
Like any sport, strategy can make or break the outcome of a volleyball game. When executed properly, strategy can build team confidence and momentum. However before ever drafting these tactics, first familiarize the players with the types of serves. Secondly, educate players on the zones of the court. Lastly, understand the opposition's strengths and weaknesses - the key to an effective offense.

•STRENGTH TRAINING
Volleyball is a physically demanding sport that requires strength, flexibility, and explosive power. In order to prevent injuries and improve overall performance, players should engage in resistance training. This training is vital in preparing athletes for the physical demands experienced during a game. Specific focus should be given to core strength which facilitates balance. Joint flexibility and tendon strength are other areas that require concentration.

Five Keys to Volleyball Serving Success

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Getting The Most Out Of Your Power Drill

Whenever you are looking to do some house work, you may end up needing a power drill. A power drill is a drill that you do not have to use good old fashion elbow grease with. The old drills back in the day did not have power running through them. To drill a hole in something you would have had to get it going by hand. Although these types of drills still work, they take a lot more time to use. Not only that, but over time it's going to wear you out a lot faster than the power drills of today.

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So what does a power drill do? The word drill actually comes form a Dutch word that is called Drillen. A power drill is a tool that has a drill bit on the end of it. The drill then spins this drill bit around very fast, and it digs a hole into different surfaces. Most of the time, you will see power drills being used in woodworking and of course, metalworking. Although the drill itself can be big, the drill bit is what is doing all the work. You sill notice that the motor is in the body of the drill, but this is just used to spin the shaft that the drill bit is on. The bit is the tool that actually cuts into the target material. Without the drill bit, you would just have a round shaft that spins without a purpose.

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There are tons of different types of drill bits that you can put on the end of your power drill. These drill bits are used to drill into different things. Some of them are made to drill into wood, and others are used to drill right through metal. Other drill bits can go through rock and even concrete. It's important to make sure that you use the right drill bit for every job. Otherwise, you could end up damaging the drill or the drill bit itself. Some of the drill bits can even be tipped with diamonds. Although this is very expensive to do, those are drill bits that can cut through just about anything. That is because diamonds are one of the hardest gems in the world.

Getting The Most Out Of Your Power Drill

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Black Friday Milwaukee 3002-1 Electricians Kit 7 Amp 1/2-Inch Right Angle Drill with D-Handle 2011 Deals

Nov 23, 2011 06:08:59

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Black Friday Milwaukee 3002-1 Electricians Kit 7 Amp 1/2-Inch Right Angle Drill with D-Handle Feature

• Electrician's right angle drill for drilling between joist and studs, in tight corners or in close quarters
• Powerful 7 amp motor and 3 speed ranges
• Steel hardened shafts; designed for use with up to 2-9/16-inch selfeed bits
• Includes case, side handle, RAD assembly, 9/16-inch open wrench, 3/16-inch socket wrench, chuck remover bar
• Weighs 10.3 pounds; 5-year warranty

Black Friday Milwaukee 3002-1 Electricians Kit 7 Amp 1/2-Inch Right Angle Drill with D-Handle Overview

3002-1 Model Code: AB (part# 3002-1) This item features: -Trigger speed control. -Locks tight at any position. -Chuck remover bar. -Steel hardened shaft. -Head and handle swivel 360 . -Glass reinforced handles. -All ball and roller bearings. -Helical cut, heat-treated gears. -Chuck Size: 1/2 in. -Chuck Type: Keyed. -Voltage: 120.00 VAC. -Amps: 7.00 A. -Cutting Cap.: 1/2 in (steel) [Max]. -Cord Length: 8 ft. -Handle Type: D-Handle. -Includes: 9/16 in. Open End Wrench, 3/16 in. Socket Wrench, Chuck Remover Bar, Side Handle, Impact Resistant Carrying Case. -Type: Right Angle Drill. -Price is for 1 Kit. Testing and approvals: -Complies with OSHA and UL requirements. Model Code  Model Description AASpeed Range (RPM):0 - 335 Low, 0 - 750 High, Gear Reduction:Quadruple ABSpeed Range (RPM):0 - 400 Low, 0 - 900 High, Gear Reduction:Double, Length:14 3/4 in ACSpeed Range (RPM):335 Low, 750 High, Gear Reduction:Quadruple

Black Friday Milwaukee 3002-1 Electricians Kit 7 Amp 1/2-Inch Right Angle Drill with D-Handle Specifications

D-handle power and a right angle drive head make this drill package perfect for stud and joist drilling. Its powerful 7 amp motor and three speed ranges make this a versatile tool that will handle a wide range of applications, including drilling between joist and studs, in tight corners, or in close quarters. It handles up to 2-9/16-inch selfeed bits, and delivers 0-400 rpm on the low side, 0-900 rpm on the high side, and 0-600 rpm with the right angle drive removed. This rugged unit comes in an impact-resistant carrying case and includes a side handle for ease of operation.

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Baseball Coaching Digest - Pitcher Fielding Practice Drills - Double Play Feeds and Covering First

Pitcher fielding practice should be an important part of every team's regular practice routine. Pitcher fielding practice is an activity that allows pitchers to practice fielding and making good throws to the different bases in different situations.

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Our Pitcher Fielding Practice or PFP, as it is called, requires all infielders and all pitchers. The activity takes only 7 minutes. Therefore we do PFP drills every day in practice. This practice activity requires two coaches to fungo or hit the ground balls, 6 baseballs, and 4 catchers alternating and catching up.

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First Set - Pitcher Covering First and Bunt throw to 2nd Base

We begin the activity by having 2 middle infielders report to their position. We will then divide the pitchers into two groups. One line will be getting over to first on a ball hit to the right side. The other line will be fielding bunts and making the throw to second. This is the first segment of the drill and we do this for 3.5 minutes without a beak. The pitchers will rotate lines after each throw.

The "cover first group" works on the right side of the diamond. The bunt cover to 2nd base group works on the left side of the diamond. The line will run out toward 2nd base. The pitchers will set up even with the pitching rubber but will shade to their respective side to allow enough space for both groups to work at the side time without delays or stopping.

Coaching Points: Covering First

The pitcher will must take a good angle toward the line and work up the line toward the bag. The catcher will yell, "get over" each time a ball is hit. The first baseman will communicate with the pitcher to let him know if he will take to the bag himself. If the first baseman bobbles or is slower getting to a ball, the pitcher will setup and stretch on the throw. It is important that the pitcher avoid shading over into the base path in order to avoid a collision with the runner. The pitchers will work out of the windup.

Coaching Point: Bunt throw to 2nd base

The pitchers and catchers will make a call. If the catcher can field it, he will. If the pitcher fields it, the catcher will make a "2 call". Communication and verbal calls by the catcher is an important part of this drill. The pitcher must make a perfect throw every time. Make sure that the pitcher has the right approach to the ball and sets the feet before picking it up, if he can. Good footwork will save time and make execution of the throw easier. The pitchers will work out of the stretch.

Set 2 - "Squeeze Play and Throwing to Second Baseball to Double Play"

During the second half of PFP's we will have the "right" side group field a "come backer" ground ball and make a throw to 1st or 2nd. The "left" side group will may a "do-or-die" play on a squeeze play for 1 minute and then cover home on a passed ball for the remaining 2 minutes.

Coaching Point: Comebacker

The coach will call out where runners are before the ball is hit. The pitchers always work out of the stretch. The catcher will make a "2 call" if the ball is a double play ball and there is a runner on 1st. If the ball is bobble or too slow for to turn two, the catcher will make a "1 call" and the pitcher will make a throw to 1st. If no runners on base the pitcher will make a throw to 1st. We will vary the situations on various days. The coach may call a runner on any base or all bases. The pitcher may check a runner at 2nd and go one, check a runner at 3rd and go 1. The pitcher may have to go home with it if the 3rd base man makes a "4 call". The pitcher may also turn two if the catcher makes a "2 call". All infielders are used during this drill and "talking" is vital.

Coaching Point: Squeeze Play - Cover Home

The "left" side group will may a "do-or-die" play on a squeeze play for 1 minute. The pitcher must charge the ball and use a "scoop and throw" technique to get the ball to the catcher. The winning run is at third and the play is a "do-or-die" play. Speed and accuracy is important. The catcher must complete the play with a simulated tag.
Next, the pitcher will practice covering home on a passed ball or wild pitch. The catcher will retrieve the ball using a "slide by" pickup technique. The catcher must make a perfect tag spot throw to the pitcher. The pitcher will hustle, set up for the throw and finish the play with a simulated tag.

Note: A lot of action is occurring is this 7 minute drill. If commit only 7 minutes so the "sense of urgency" make the kids really bounce around and hustle. Each fielder receiving a throw will step out of the drill and make a throw to the 2nd catcher in their drill. The catcher will then toss the ball to the coach for the next rep. The catchers alternate each side every other day. One day two catchers will work the "right side" drills and the next day they will work the "left side" drills.

I hope you find this information useful and beneficial. I know that you can add and make improvements to this activity as you use it. Good Luck till next time, Nick Dixon.

Baseball Coaching Digest - Pitcher Fielding Practice Drills - Double Play Feeds and Covering First

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Black Friday Milescraft 1302 Drive90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment with 1/4-Inch Hex Quick Change Drive and Magnetic 1/4-inch Socket 2011 Deals

Nov 22, 2011 03:22:35

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Black Friday Milescraft 1302 Drive90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment with 1/4-Inch Hex Quick Change Drive and Magnetic 1/4-inch Socket Feature

• Compact 1.25 inch profile at a true 90 degree angle from the drill or driver gets into confined spaces
• Gears housed in die cast body with 3 sets of ball bearings for long lasting durability
• 1/4 inch hex drive shaft is quick change compatible and fits most power drill and driver chucks
• Magnetic 1/4 inch hex socket accepts and holds standard drill and driver bits
• Includes bonus 1/8 inch Stubby Drill Bit and 3 one inch slotted, phillips and square driver bits

Black Friday Milescraft 1302 Drive90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment with 1/4-Inch Hex Quick Change Drive and Magnetic 1/4-inch Socket Overview

Reach into awkward corners and difficult angles with the Drive 90, a compact, right-angle screw driver attachment. Drive end has the industry standard 1/4" hex shaft that inserts into your quick connector or can be chucked directly into your drill/driver. Opposite end has a hex socket that accepts ordinary hex shank bits so you can change bits with a flick of the wrist. Built tough for any DIY project around the house but is equally at home in the shop, both in terms of durability and performance. Delivers a maximum 100 inch/ lb. of torque at 400 rpm

Black Friday Milescraft 1302 Drive90 Right Angle Drilling and Driving Power Drill Attachment with 1/4-Inch Hex Quick Change Drive and Magnetic 1/4-inch Socket Specifications

The Milescraft Drive90 is a right-angle drill drive attachment, featuring a magnetic 1/4-inch hex socket. This standard 1/4-inch hex input shaft accepts and holds all standard 1/4-inch driver bits and will fit any drill. The Drive90 includes 3 of the most common bits: the #2 straight; the #2 Phillips; and #2 square head. It also features a compact head design, ideal for close-quarter driving. The gears are housed in a die-cast zinc body and perform a strong, maximum 100 inch/pounds of torque at 400 RPM, providing the tool with durability and high performance. The drill drive includes an ergonomic positioning handle for safety and comfort during use. This innovative tool is built tough for any DIY project around the house. It is covered by a two-year warranty.

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Woodworking Beginners: Secret Tips To Start Right

Woodworking: Where To Start - Tips From Experienced Woodworkers

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Woodworking encompasses a broad area of skills, specialties, and applications. Some beginners take on too much too soon or blow their savings on expensive woodworking tools and machines that they don't know how to use and might not ever need. And even some basic techniques can be confusing or easy to do incorrectly. Experienced woodworkers have some simple, but insightful tips to help you get off to a good start.

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Do Your Research

Initiative, courage, a sense of adventure, these are all good things, and many fine woodworkers learned their skills by just jumping in and trying to build something. Chances are whatever they chose for their first project, it came out better than they thought, but not really nice enough to use or display. Even those brave souls that start from scratch with no preparation often end up seeking out some books, magazines, or experienced woodworkers to figure out how to do it right.

The woodworkers we talked to stressed that a person can save themselves some time and frustration by learning about the different aspects of woodworking before starting a first project. Many suggested finding some good books or magazines, either at the library for free or at the bookstore. Start with the basics and learn about different forms of woodworking, types of trees and woods and how they are used, various tools, etc. - just the kind of information presented here in this article.

"I have an entire corner of my garage filled with books and magazines," shared Paul Johnson, who has been woodworking since he was a young boy. "I subscribe to a couple and keep those that have projects or techniques that I would like to try. I also buy a couple new books every year. When I first started woodworking, I bought them left and right; whenever I came across one that was recommended or had information I wanted to learn. They help give me ideas for projects," he added. "I especially like those that come with patterns."

After learning about the basics, you should have an idea of what type of woodworking interests you, and you can move on to books or even classes that teach hands on skills in that particular area.

Take Some Classes

In fact taking classes was recommended by several of our experts. Whether it's a beginning class through the local college or something taught by an experienced woodworker, it will typically give you a good overview of different tools and woodworking safety. Some building centers and lumberyards also offer classes on basics or teach you how to make a specific project.

If you aren't big on classes, but you know a person who is skilled in woodworking, ask if they would let you assist them with a project, or perhaps just sit and observe. Most woodworkers are pleased to talk about their art and share it with others. Chances are they will be happy to oblige.

Keep It Simple

The answer, "Keep it simple," came up over and over, when asked for advice for new woodworkers. Start with simple projects, preferably those that use only hand tools. This way, you will learn how to do the important things like measure, cut, shape and join. Getting good at those basic skills is extremely important.

If you are brand new to woodworking and haven't used tools much before, you might want to consider starting with a precut kit. Most kits consist of wood that is already cut in the appropriate shapes and sizes. It is up to you to follow the directions and put the pieces together. These kits typically require nailing, screwing, gluing, sanding, and finishing. You can make birdhouses and feeders, benches, plant holders, and many other fun items to get you started.

Even as you advance to more complex projects, don't worry about planning and sizing your own lumber until you feel comfortable and confident. You can buy lumber already prepped and cut in many different widths. And table legs, chair spindles, and other turned pieces are also readily available pre-made. Ease into some of those more difficult projects over time, adding greater levels of difficulty to each project.

Tool Tips

The suggestions to keep it simple applied to woodworking tools as well. Most people interviewed recommended buying tools as you need them and adding to your selection as required for new projects. If a project is purchased as a kit, or with printed instructions, the list of tools needed is included. Depending on what type of projects you choose to start with, you will typically need hammers, tape measure, clamps, a square, saws, hand drills, and a set of chisels. These will probably cost you around 0-0 dollars.

Some woodworkers said that investing in a good table saw early on was important, but only if you will be doing projects with many cuts, especially those with different types of angles. For most beginner projects, a handsaw, or perhaps a circular saw will suffice.

It is strongly suggested that you begin by buying good tools, but not top grade until you decide for certain that you want to stick with woodworking. If it becomes clear that this will be an ongoing interest, then consider buying the best quality tools you can afford. Best quality doesn't always mean the most expensive, and you will have to do your research.

Kevin Warner, who has been teaching high school shop for over twenty years, had this to say about woodworking tools. "At school, I have a limited budget for tools, but I would rather buy a few high quality tools and have the kids share them than spend my money on cheap equipment. There's nothing that will turn a young beginner away from woodworking quicker than a crappy tool that doesn't do what it should."

The same is true for home woodworking. Our experts recommended spending as much as you could afford on the basic tools like hammers, saws, screwdrivers, drills and bits. "These are tools you will need around the house even if you don't pursue woodworking," Sarah Greeley pointed out. "If you spend the money up front, and care for them correctly, these tools will last you a lifetime because you bought quality to begin with."

If you have a tight budget, consider purchasing tools at an estate sale, auction or garage sale. Some may have worn handles or look like they are rusty or dirty, but if they are quality tools and generally sound, you can clean and repair them for less than it would cost to purchase new.

In general, you get what you pay for with woodworking tools, but sometimes you pay for the name, or for features that you may not use in your particular type of woodworking. So again, you will need to refer to books, magazines, Web sites, and other woodworkers to learn more about different types and brands of tools. And so you see, the tips have brought you full circle, back to the research and learning, which is what so many woodworkers stressed the most.

There is much to learn and, as has been said, it is an ongoing process. But thanks to the wealth of information out there about different aspects of woodworking, and the many Web sites and Internet resources, it is easy to research your questions. You just have to take the time.

Woodworking Beginners: Secret Tips To Start Right

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Angle Levels for Your Projects

If you have some projects you need done around the home you will, more than likely, need to find the right angle levels for your work. There is a large variety to choose from, however, and it is a good idea to have some knowledge about what it available on the market. Whether you intend to shop online or at your local hardware store, you can learn a little about the choices you can expect to find.

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Angle Levels and Angle Locators

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This style of angle locators is meant to be used for work such as plumbing and electrical. The main purpose is to use these to have a tool that has strong, contact by use of a magnet to a pipe, conduit or other similar surface types. As may be obvious from the name, the main function is to identify angles. You will probably want this kind to include a grooved edge that can work with or around pipes and conduits. Some people also prefer an angle locator that has both a metric ruler, as well as a English ruler.

Another Type of Angle Finder and Level

To set and determine angles, this is the right kind of tool for you. These are, often times, more compact and smaller, as well as light weight. Always look for one of these angle finders which is made from ABS materials. ABS stands for 'As Built Specifications' which is important in the hardware industry. Again, look for one with a grooved base so that it can rest with ease on both flat and round surfaces. This will make your job easier, as well as make the results much more accurate.

Standard Angle Level

This is what you can opt for, if you do not need any other whistles and bells. If your home remodeling or other type of building projects require you to have a level for your angles, and nothing more, this may be the best choice, for you. One of the most basic and standard models comes in a 9 inch length and 2 inch height. These levels are generally available in aluminum, though you may be able to downgrade to plastic, if you are looking to keep within a certain budget amount.

You may want to find one that is 360 degree adjustable with two 90-degree quadrants. It is common to find an angle like this with the pull magnets needed to get accurate readings. This style, as well, should have the groove located on the bottom so that the device can be used on either a small pipe or conduit.

If your home remodeling or other type of construction tasks require leveling, especially of angles, you can browse to find the best one for your needs. Do research among angle levels and you're sure to find one that would work best, for you.

Angle Levels for Your Projects

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